Nicknamed “the road of Happiness”, the loop of the karst plateau of Dong Van, in the province of Tuyen Quang (formerly Ha Giang), in Northern Vietnam, extends for about 400 km and attracts lovers of adventure travel and spectacular scenery.
Foreign travelers adore the feeling of freedom offered by discovering the "Road of Happiness" by motorcycle. Between majestic mountains, verdant valleys, and hairpin bends clinging to the cliffside, every kilometer provides an adrenaline rush and constant wonder.
American Derek Norman, who traveled this legendary route by motorcycle for four days, told the New York Times: “I held the handlebars of my Honda XR firmly, one eye on the narrow road, the other on my guide who was riding a few meters ahead of me. Then, suddenly, the road opened onto an endless panorama: hills, terraced rice paddies and mountain ranges shrouded in mist. I understood why the locals call this place ‘Heaven’s Gate’.”
The limestone mountains around Tam Son are emblematic of the Dong Van plateau, a UNESCO Global Geopark. Each day, Norman and his group traveled nearly 100 km, stopping at open-air cafes, weaving workshops or villages of the H'Mong, Tày and Dao ethnic groups, before spending the night in picturesque homestays.
The winding and spectacular Tham Ma mountain pass is one of the most photographed routes. For travelers, the charm lies less in the destination than in the journey itself. Less experienced visitors or foreigners can choose to travel as an easy rider – passengers on the back of a motorbike driven by a local guide – to better enjoy the scenery without having to worry about driving.
The breathtaking descent from the Ma Pi Leng Pass, another iconic stage, offers stunning views of the deep valleys and turquoise rivers. "Every turn reveals a different scene," says Danielle Wyatt, a tourist from New Zealand. "We drove through dark mountains one moment and fields the next where farmers were growing rice and corn the next. Children laughed by the roadside, and villagers greeted us with smiles. It was magical."
Others, like 24-year-old Maddi Moran from California, recall moments of pure emotion: "My guide told me to let go of the handlebars and open my arms. It was like flying without leaving the ground."
As for Juliette Tiefenauer, a 30-year-old French physiotherapist from Montpellier, she remembers the end of her journey: "On the way back down to Ha Giang, I was exhausted but elated. I felt like I was being reborn."
Between adrenaline, raw beauty and human encounters, the “road of Happiness” remains an unforgettable experience, a symbol of the authentic charm of the mountainous North of Vietnam.
(Source: VNA)
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